Maui Snorkeling Trips

Photo Courtesy Jim Friend Photography

We are often asked if Hawaii has seals, and if we do, where are they?  The answer is ‘yes’ Hawaii has an endemic population of monk seals, which is critically endangered.  In the Northwestern Chain (Midway, Laysan, etc.) there is a struggling population of seals, which according to researchers is dwindling at an alarming rate.  But, also according to researchers, it seems each main island has its own, distinct population and those numbers may be slowly increasing.  Only time will tell us what is in store for these beautiful, curious, and amazing animals.

When the pups are born, usually a single pup, they are jet black and look like velvet.  They are with their mother on a beach somewhere for only a few short weeks, nursing fat rich milk and growing at an astounding rate until soon, they are bigger than her, and on their own.  Mom will desert the pup and go in search of food, which may be reef fish, lobsters, crab, among other things.  While the mom is nursing her new pup, she will not leave it for even a moment and fasts, living off her own blubber.  What happens if there are twins?  Unfortunately, without human intervention, the smaller pup will most likely not survive.  How often this happens, no one knows.

Will you see a Hawaiian Monk Seal while visiting the islands?  The odds are against it, but it is possible.  On Maui, there are several beaches where monk seals are known to haul out.  On Hookipa, north shore, we have a large female, Makana, who hauls out several times per year and now one of her pups has chosen a beach down the road to use for resting.  Monk seals are quite often nocturnal feeders and will sleep all day.  If you are priviledged enough to see one sleeping you might notice that they sneeze many times to clear the sand that may blow into their cute noses.  Also, they snore!  Quite loudly.  Sometimes, while snorkeling at Molokini, we get really lucky.  Humpy, a people friendly seal appears, swimming around the SNUBA folks, and snorkelers.  He seems curious of humans.  Everyone is cautioned to NEVER approach him, though.  Monk seals can be very vicious and they weigh several hundred pounds.  They are also a protected animal, so fines are stiff if you touch or approach one.  But, just like the picture shows, he does people watch and that would provide a truly amazing opportunity to get a picture of a critically endangered species.  Humpy is quickly recognized by the scar over his right eyebrow and several other scars, one made by a shark attack when he was very small. Why are they called ‘monk’ seals?  There are two possibilities.  First, they live a solitary existence for the most part.  Second, when a seal sits up, a large collar of fat rings their heads, looking very much like the collar on a monk, the experts tell us.

The Hawaiians named the seals Ilioholoikauaua, which means ‘dog that runs in rough seas’.

So, yes, there are seals in Hawaii.  We locals truly love our seals.  There are several organizations that are working desperately to save them.  Keep your camera handy when traveling around.  You just never know!

Photo Courtesy Dr. Jack Randall

There may not be a ‘doctor’ but there are plenty of surgeonfish!  In Hawaiian waters, there are currently known to researchers 24 species of these very interesting fish.  These animals are so named because of the ’scalpel’ sharp spines near the base of their bodies where the tails begin.  They are able to slash at anyone, or thing, that comes too close by giving a rapid sidesweep of their tails.  Unicornfish, like the bluespine males in the picture, are so named because of the projection growing off their foreheads.  Males have a more pronounced horn than females, but both sexes have them.  With unicornfish, males can be easily identified by the trailing threads growing off the tips of their tails.  What is up with the horn, you may wonder?  Although some researchers are still undecided, others say the horn is used with aggression by the males, possibly during mating time.  Maturity happens when they are 4 years or older.  Whatever the usage, some fish have amazingly long horns, which can grow longer than 1/2 foot!  Some of the fish in this family also have venomous spines in the pelvic fins, anal fins and second dorsal.  Surgeonfish are also reported to have ciguatera.  Not the best fish to catch for lunch!

When snorkeling one may observe these fish grazing on seaweed, which is their main dietary choice, while others may choose zooplankton and some will ingest sand to aid with digestion.  As always, when enjoying snorkeling, SNUBA, or SCUBA, most are aware that fish feeding is never to be done, but if anyone around you chooses to ignore this rule it is alright to ask them to stop.  The animals are wild, do not need our offerings– no matter how well intentioned– and because of the very well equipped surgeonfish, it is also for our safety.  The wildlife belong to us all, so do speak up.  Grab your gear, camera and observe what Hawaii’s reefs have to offer us.  These fish are not always shy and watching them graze on seaweed is such a delightful experience.  

Photo Courtesy Dr. Jack Randall

What a beautiful little fish!  Little, indeed!  This endemic (only in Hawaiian waters) fish grows to barely under 5 inches, but for such a little animal, they have a very important job on the reef.

They often will set up a cleaning station and wait for fish to swim down to the reef and posture.   Posturing is done in many ways, but usually the fish wanting cleaning will try to hold still, sometimes head down, and flare their gills and rays (fins).  The little wrasse will then hurriedly pick off any loose scales and parasitic crustaceans, thereby providing a service of sorts and food for itself.  Snorkelers may observe some cleaning stations having quite a line-up of waiting customers.  Even eels will patiently wait while this animal swims in and out of the mouth, cleaning around sharp teeth and gums.

These colorful fish will do something really interesting at night.  They will encase themselves in a mucous bubble where they will be safe from predation and able to sleep until light.  With their bright coloration, which many poisonous fish have, they are not preyed upon by many animals.  They swim in a dancing, flitting type of motion making them really fun for divers and snorkelers to watch.  Wrasses swim mainly with their pectoral fins, giving a flapping motion that can be quite comical.  What may be even more surprising to some is that this family of fish have molariform teeth toward their throat area.  This allows the fish to be better able to crush their food, which may also consist of coral polyps, invertebrates and some wrasses in the family eat mollusks!

Wrasses can do something pretty amazing.  They can change sex from female to male, as necessary.  Many species of wrasse live in a harem, with one male in charge.  Should something happen to him, the largest female in the group will absorb her eggs, develop sperm, and change to male.  Some researchers believe this may be true for all species of wrasses.

Unfortunately, because they are such a cute little fish, they are prized for aquarium trade, making the species very vulnerable.

The Hawaiians have a beautiful name for this special fish:  Hinalea

Photo courtesy Dr. Jack Randall

For many, just mention the word ’shark’ and images of the star of that big blockbuster hit in the 70s comes to mind.  Yes, you know the one.  The 20 + foot robotic, rubberized fish that scared millions and made even more for the writer and all involved, JAWS.  How very interesting that Peter Benchley later said writing that book was one of the largest mistakes of his life and he became a huge advocate for saving a quickly dwindling worldwide population of great white sharks.

I suppose the thought of being chased and bitten by something is a large fear for many.  Even your local postman will attest to having a phobia along those lines.  You have also probably heard that one has a better chance of being killed by a falling coconut, than being bitten by a shark, providing you spend much time sitting under coconut trees.  More people die every year of bee stings than there are folks bitten by a shark.  The odds of being bitten by a shark are astronomical.  If truth be known, you have a darn good chance of being bitten by any little fish out there if you are feeding fish, or snorkeling by someone who is.  Most folks entering the ocean now days have the proper ocean etiquette drilled into them by rental shops, and most snorkeling vessels’ conscientious staff is well versed in these rules as well.  I had a cute little boy ask me once if there were a place where he could hug and pet a shark.  (Absolutely adorable thought!)  I suppose that would be a sure-fire way to receive a love bite if there is one.

So, will you even see a shark? Divers know the answer to that better than most.  Not if the shark sees you first! In all the years that I’ve lived in the state and dove, snorkeled, boated and swam, I have seen a shark, while in the water only once!  That small reef shark was accompanied by two others and all were cruising the sea floor in search of a yummy octopus, lobster, or reef fish.  It was very disappointing since taking a picture of retreating tails is not my idea of the great photo.  There are several dive spots where, although not guaranteed, a diver may get lucky enough to see, and maybe photograph a reef shark, your best bet would be at our local aquarium if you want a sure thing.

Many of you are probably breathing a big sigh of relief if you are coming to Maui to snorkel, and that is quite alright.  However, the sad truth is that our planet’s shark population is under threat of becoming extinct in our lifetime, and that is something none of us want to have happen.  Sharks play a vital role in the balance out in liquid space.  Some shark species will eat carrion (dead, rotting animals), while others are specialists in turning over rocks in search of octopus and lobsters.  Some eat other sharks, rays, turtles, and even sea birds.  Sharks are a fascinating animal to study.  One of the best things about sharks, especially for children, is it doesn’t matter what they are doing: sleeping, hunting, or just cruising around, they look cool just doing it.

Will you get to see a shark in Hawaii?  Probably not.  Grab your gear, camera, and no feeding the wildlife.  You will be sure of observing colorful reefs, many types of little fish, and if you get lucky, maybe a turtle!  See you out there.

 Photo Courtesy Dr. Jack Randall, Bishop Museum

The wedge-tail triggerfish is a cute little animal that will show its personality to the very patient diver, or snorkeler, is also known as the Hawaii State Fish (reinstated in 2006), or humuhumunukunukuapua`a.  Whew!  If you can master that you’ve really said a mouthful.  Broken down, it is much easier:  humu-humu, nuku-nuku, a-pua-a.  Okay, so what does it mean?  Quite simply, humuhumu is the Hawaiian word for trigger fish, nukunuku means ’snout-like’, a (of) and pua-a is pig.

This adorable fish, when guarding a nest, can be very fierce. (Males & females guard nests.)  I have witnessed these little ones (can grow to 30 centimeters) chase away anything, or anyone, who comes too close, even sharks and unsuspecting people!  Quite the fascinating thing to take in.  Even more interesting is their diet, which consists of algae, sponges, and smaller fish, but they will also zealously attack sea urchins and gut them with gusto. Wow, just when you think you’ve seen everything out there!  These fish can be very comical hunters.  Since they also will eat worms, you might wonder how a trigger fish would uncover a worm hiding in the sea floor.  They simply put their cute little mouths against the sand and give a mighty blow.  I almost lost my regulator on that one, I was laughing so hard.

How did such a gaily painted, oddly shaped fish came about getting such a large name?  In Hawaiian folklore they have a very interesting history.  Kamapua`a was a very powerful pig-god who could change his appearance at will.  He could be a very virile, strikingly handsome youth tempting the ladies one minute, and a giant, black boar who accepted no retributions and defied all authority the next.  He had a love interest in an equally powerful goddess, Madam Pele, the goddess of fire and creation.  He could also quickly turn into the fish (who looks like a pig), leaving land and slipping into the ocean.  How convenient would that be if you had gotten into something you shouldn’t, especially when you never acknowledged responsibilities?

When visitors come to the islands, most of them want to get wet, and besides wanting to master saying the name, would love to get a picture of this adorable state fish.  For snorkelers, and divers alike, they are an easy fish to find and still plentiful, but not an easy one to photograph.  It just takes a little patience.  So, grab your gear, let’s go!

Photo Courtesy Jim Friend Productions

^{Molokini island is a fabulous place to enjoy for many reasons.  First, it is not an island, but a ‘tuff cone’.  Tuff cones are formed by a volcanic eruption, which exploded, or had a series of explosions, when combined with water.  The state of Hawaii has three such cones and two are accessible by boat to delight both snorkelers and divers.  One is off the island of Niihau, which is just south of the island of Kaua’i.  Molokini is just three miles from the Maui shoreline, but most vessels leave from Maalaea Harbor giving the travelers a relaxing hour ride while munching on fruit, muffins, bagels and sipping juices or a steaming hot cup of delicious island coffee, depending on what the particular tour company offers.  Sitting in the center of the Alalakeiki (screaming child) channel, the waters on the backside of Molokini drop down to 300 feet deep, offering divers a diverse view of reef animals, sharks, and many species of coral, including some rare black coral.  Inside the crescent, the crystal clear waters amaze snorkelers with clarity to 150 feet.  On a really good day there is the possibility visitors may even catch a glimpse of bottlenose or spinner dolphins, manta rays or even the amazing whale shark!}

 ^{Molokini is steeped with Hawaiian folklore.  One story tells of Pele (the goddess of fire) and a mo’o being (lizard goddess) named Pu’uoinaina having a disagreement.  The end result was Pu’uoinaina being cut in half, the tail becoming the hill in Makena (Pu’u Olai’i) and the head and body becoming Molokini.}

 ^{All visitors to Maui should really consider making the time to take the family on a snorkel trip to Molokini.  It will create great memories for all who enjoy being on the Pacific Ocean.  After all, half of what Hawaii’s all about is in the sea!}

When visitors come to Maui to get into the clear, warm, blue waters of the Pacific, many do not know about a growing sport called SNUBA (a combination of snorkel and SCUBA). So, if you are the adventurous type and maybe would like more of a challenge than snorkeling offers, SNUBA is for you!

We can all probably agree that it is a real privilege to get into the water and observe the local animals from the surface, but have you ever found yourself wondering what that little creature down there is doing? With SNUBA you can dive down to around 25’, while wearing a weight belt, but not the tank. The tank stays at the surface resting in a small raft while you and a partner each wear a regulator. This allows you the advantage of coming eye-to-eye with that little octopus, crabs foraging for food, or possibly observing, first hand, that a sea star can be quite a speedy critter.

There are many tour companies that offer SNUBA while you are on a snorkel cruise. One of the best advantages of SNUBA is, unlike SCUBA, you don’t have to be 12 years old, so this allows children and parents to venture down to the reefs together. Most instructors will take children as young as 9 and as old as the youngest in heart. The best part is that no experience is necessary.

How this works is quite uncomplicated. A certified SCUBA instructor will hold a brief class while you are cruising out to Molokini. All questions will be answered, fears eased, reef etiquette will be taught, and a fish identification class may also be taught. Depending on the company, equipment will be all inclusive of the price, which varies between $40 – $60 additional to your snorkel price. This is really quite a bargain and, in this writer’s opinion, well worth the trial investment. For parents, who may have a budding Jacques Cousteau in one of your children, most of the fun with this exciting sport is watching the excitement while studying a crab drag a prize into its den, or observing two fish fighting over the same piece of seaweed. Most dives will last 20-30 minutes.

For many, SNUBA is a stepping stone for SCUBA and most certainly opens up a whole new angle to getting in the ocean. The next step would be to take a class in off shore diving. So, quit thinking about it. Take the plunge for a truly unforgettable experience!